De Ville’s – Great Cuisine In Dalkey

Located on the main street in the old heritage town of Dalkey, serving traditional bistro fare.

Born out of a love of food and the ceremony of dining out, its joint owners brother and sister Kim and David O’Driscoll serve moderately priced, traditional bistro fare seven nights a week with brunch on Fridays and the weekend.

Serving predominantly French wines from a carefully selected wine list, draft beers and an extensive range of spirits & house cocktails there is something for everybody at DeVille’s.

Our Opening Hours

Dinner: Mon – Thurs: 5PM – 10PM
Fri – Sat: 12 Noon – 11PM
Sunday: 12 Noon – 9PM

December Opening Hours

***** open for lunch every day*****
12pm

Dinner: Mon – Thurs: 12PM – 10PM
Fri – Sat: 12PM – 11PM
Sunday: 12PM – 9PM

Closed Christmas Day, St. Stephen’s Day & New Year’s Day

We would like to thank all our loyal customers for their continued support throughout the year and wish you a very Merry Christmas & Happy New Year
From everyone at DeVille’s

Lunch

Dinner

Dessert

Wines

DeVille’s Christmas set dinner and lunch menu

Lunch

Dinner

Read reviews from the The Examiner, The Taste and Independent

READ THE REVIEW

Devilles review The Examiner by Tony Clayton Lea

WHEN chef Keith McNally opened his restaurant, Pastis, in New York’s rundown Meatpacking area in 1999, it blew the competition away to such a degree that one of the restaurant’s most noted celeb visitors, Martha Stewart, gushed that having an eatery of such distinction was like Paris coming to town.

Pastis is now closed for lengthy renovations but we appreciate Martha’s enthusiasm. Walking into DeVille’s we are immediately struck by the gentle homage it pays to a 1930’s Parisian brasserie. The colour scheme of dark red and even darker brown, the placing of banquette seating, alcoves and bar-side stool-chairs — not forgetting the chequered tile flooring — was as much visually welcoming as it was a reminder that pastiche needn’t necessarily be slavish.

As for whether Paris has arrived in a beautiful heritage town in South County Dublin — well, let’s just say that it’s close but no cigare. To their credit, you sense that joint owners, brother and sister David and Kim O’Driscoll, want to create something more than just a facsimile, and that’s fine with us. Adapting originality or blueprints to suit your own purposes — and adapting in such a way that it comes across as more affectionate than calculating — is also okay.

There are niggling issues, however, that need to be addressed in a restaurant of this calibre. We were seated away from the hub of things, at an angle from which (after we had ordered from the menu) we happened to discover the Special’s Board. Unfortunately, we weren’t made aware there was one, which could be viewed as either a missed opportunity or a lack of attention. In a similar vein, when we asked what one of the sauces was for a starter (salted chilli squid) the server hummed and hawed, and had to go and ask the chef. Which is fine, too, but in a restaurant of such flair, surely all staff should be tutored in the minutiae of the menu, and be able to answer customer queries at the table? It was fish and lime, seeing as you’re asking — although as to the exact nature of the ‘fish’ we’re still wondering.

So far, so disconcerting. The room seemed busy for a Monday night, though, and a stroll to the toilets proved instructive as we glanced about ourselves — everyone was in good form, the bar seats were taken by customers nursing what might well turn out to be the restaurant’s signature cocktail (espresso Martini — classy), and there was conversation flowing from north to south. Oh, and in the gents toilet were a series of wall cartoons that were — depending on viewpoint, of course — either ooh-la-la risqué or questionably sexist.

And the food, I hear you ask? Sacre bleu, mon amie, the food was astonishing. Chilli squid? Crisp’n’tender, and a total yum treat. French Onion soup? So hot you could have walked to Killiney and back and it still would have burned your tongue; it was incredibly, intensely hearty — nostril-flaring flavours, Gruyére cheese you had to bite down on to get it off your spoon, and bread that soaked up the rich goodness.

Mains of pork belly (with rugged spinach, apple and sage sauce, and a viscous boudin noir — a fancy name for black pudding) and rack of Wicklow Lamb were equally splendid; the former was shrouded by a crackling skin that wasn’t so crunchy it could chip teeth, and the latter was cooked as asked (medium-rare). A shared dessert of Lemon Tart was just enough to question the existence of higher intelligence. A bottle of 2012 Nordoc Cabernet Sauvignon only added to the existential bliss.

So, no, Paris hasn’t arrived unannounced in South County Dublin, but you’ll be pushed, I’ll wager, to find a better and warmer-hearted neo-French eatery in Ireland.

THE TAB: Dinner for two, with a bottle of wine, came to €93.50, tip extra.

HOW TO: Open seven days. Mon-Thurs, 5pm-10pm; Fri-Sat, 12noon-11pm; Sun, 12noon-9pm

THE VERDICT: Food: 10/10 Service: 6/10 Ambience: 7/10 Wine: 7/10 Value: 8/10

© Irish Examiner Ltd. All rights reserved

A Piece of Paris in Dalkey – DeVille’s Restaurant Review

The charming heritage town of Dalkey seems to be the perfect location for a charming little Parisian bistro. DeVille’s has been a neighbourhood staple since owners Kim and David O’Driscoll opened their doors in 2012. In a post recession South County Dublin suburb, you can expect to find great food, great value and a strong French influence.

The restaurant is warm and welcoming, decked out in deep reds and mahogany wood. You can choose to eat in cosy little booths or perch at a high table in the window and watch the world go by. At weekends I expect it to be busy but as we visited on a wintry Tuesday I was quite surprised to find the dining room at capacity.

After waiting at the bar with a nice glass of cava, we were led to an intimate little booth complete with white tablecloths and low lighting for a relaxed but luxurious atmosphere. Our server Graham was a fountain of knowledge from the menus to the wine list. Ordering was a pleasure and we followed each of his recommendations from the temperature of my steak to a lovely bottle of Chianti which he was happy for us to sample before we made up our indecisive minds.

The French influence jumps off the menu which consists of a range of bistro options, grills and seafood specials. Fresh oysters are a specialty sitting among other dishes like French Onion Soup, Chicken Liver Parfait, Salt Chili Squid, Braised Short Ribs, Slow Roast Pork Belly and a Fillet of Hake.

DeVille’s just happens to be Nicola’s favourite restaurant and she couldn’t resist her usual starter of Sautéed Atlantic Prawns €12. A very generous portion, the large Dublin Bay prawns were spot on, swimming in a dish of garlic and herbs with plenty of bread to mop up the oils and juices.

My Scallops St. Jacques €12 had a nice crispy breadcrumb and a great flavour of roast fennel. It was a pleasantly surprising dish and executed really well.

For the main event in DeVille’s you can’t go wrong with a lovely cut of meat. The 12oz Rib Eye €26 came highly recommended and did not disappoint. The meat was cooked exactly as ordered (medium) and had a gorgeous chargrilled flavour. The accompanying béarnaise was a little cold to be honest but I wasn’t too bothered as the steak was so good without it. It’s hard to impress with chips, they don’t usually feature in a review, but the chips here are to die for, crispy perfection with a lovely and light garlic aioli.

Another carnivore’s dream dish is the Rack of Lamb €26. Also cooked to order, it was nicely pink inside and served with a creamy slice of potato dauphinoise. On the side was a little jug of a beautiful cranberry and mint sauce that would make me order the lamb again in a heartbeat. The quality of the meat and the cooking really showed here and the dish was a lovely complement of flavours.

The food at DeVille’s is rich and comforting so if you have indulged I suggest you pause for a little while before attempting dessert. A must try is the Lemon Tart with Champagne Poached Berry Compote €6.50. The tart is light and fruity with a nice balance between pastry and filling. The accompanying sorbet and compote are tangy and sweet and a lovely way to round off the meal.

We weren’t quite finished though, DeVille’s signature Espresso Martini €9.50 is a perfect aperitif and one of the best to be found outside the city centre. We were also treated to little shots of Red Hen which is a lovely little gesture at the end of your evening.

South County Dublin is becoming increasingly competitive with new restaurants and eateries opening up all the time. DeVille’s is one that is standing the test of time and with food and service this good, it’s not hard to see why. The bill excluding service was €127.50.

French Taste that is authentic and satisfying.

Food review: Simply delicious at DeVille’s in Dalkey

If you eat out regularly, you’ll be familiar with the current schtick in trendy restaurants. A meal begins with snacks and nibbles, perhaps with some house-made bread and fermented butter alongside. There’ll be a short, sometimes very short, menu featuring an amount of fish and chicken skin used as garnish, some foraged ingredients, and a few dishes that involve the smoking of ingredients.

Some of this new breed of restaurants are good, some very good, and others less so. There can be a sameness to the offering, a sense that all the chefs have eaten in the same restaurants in Copenhagen, that they spend their time off flicking through copies of Sandor Katz’s bible, The Art of Fermentation, while simultaneously planning their trip to Faviken, Magnus Nilsson’s restaurant in Northern Sweden, a 16-seater billed as the world’s most isolated.

I’m not complaining. Not really. I can remember when you were more likely to get a bad meal than a good one when you ate out in an Irish restaurant, and that is not the case any more. The standard of food available is far, far better than it was even a decade ago, and praise be for that.

But sometimes trendy food is not what you want to eat. Sometimes you don’t want a meal in which the vegetables are centre-stage. You don’t want to eat a type of fish that you’ve never heard of even if it is sustainable, you’re not sure about that sea buckthorn stuff, and you’ve never really liked kimchi anyway.

Sometimes you just want a steak. Sometimes you’re eating with friends or family and you don’t want to be challenged or wowed by what you are eating. You don’t want to feel obliged to Instagram your plate or tweet your ceviche. You’d prefer to concentrate on the company rather than the food.

On one of those days, the kind of restaurant that you might want to go to is one such as DeVille’s in Dalkey. I hope that they will take it as a compliment when I say that what they do at DeVille’s is classic, simple, uncomplicated bistro food, and that they do it very well.

The menu is short, but long enough that everyone from your 10-year-old to your granny will be able to find something on it to suit. It’s not cheap – although the one-course bistro menu at €15 is excellent value, particularly when you consider the location, in upmarket Dalkey – but it isn’t stonkingly expensive either.

I visited with four friends and so, between us, we tried a good cross-section of the menu.

Pan-fried lambs kidneys were pink, tender and tasty, far better than the ones I had in another restaurant recently. They came with samphire, which is not an obvious pairing, but the vibrant green made the plate look attractive. Salted chilli squid came with a couple of Asian dipping sauces, the rings delicate and crisp. A half dozen oysters tasted of the sea, as they should. Excellent.

Steak frites from the bistro menu attracts a €3 supplement but comes with pepper sauce or bearnaise and perfect shoestring fries, so €18 seems a fair price for a decent striploin, cooked by an expert. Duck confit was, we felt, under-seasoned and a tad dry. A dry-aged rib-eye was a fabulous piece of meat, succulent and full of flavour; with four plump, caramelised scallops added it turned into Surf & Turf. The bearnaise was great, but I found the pepper sauce over-sweet.

From a wide selection of sides (six out of 16 are variations on the theme of potato, which may not be fashionable but will surely endear DeVille’s to many) we tried the roasted cauliflower with pine nuts, the carrot and parsnip mash, and nutmeg-scented creamed spinach, along with some fabulous crisp chunky chips. There were no complaints.

So, nothing to scare the horses, nor to frighten off any plain eaters, but some well-executed simple food.

For pudding, a crème brûlée came with a buttery, melt-in-the-mouth shortbread and the perfect ratio of wide, crunchy surface area to smooth custard below. Chocolate mousse with – it has to be said – some less than seasonal raspberries came with a scoop of chocolate ice cream too. It wasn’t exceptional, but more than adequate.

A selection of cheeses disappointed, in that the cheeses were not identified by our server and there were too many small pieces of too many different types of cheese, all of which were over-chilled. In the trendy restaurants, you’re more likely to get one larger piece of a single cheese, and this is preferable, in that it allows a restaurant to focus on keeping one cheese in prime condition, rather than trying to achieve that with several.

Our dinner for four, with two bottles of the luscious Langhe Maretti nebbiolo / barbera blend from Piedmont that is cropping up on a few lists around Dublin these days (it’s a few euro cheaper at DeVille’s than I’ve seen it anywhere else), cost €218 before service, a fair price for quality food served with genuine charm.

On a budget

The ‘Bistro Menu’ offers a choice of main courses, including Duck Confit and Fish & Chips, for €15.

On a blowout

A Seafood Platter and Surf and Turf for two, with a couple of sides and desserts, would cost €125 before wine or service.

The high point

A terrific buzz in the room and excellent, friendly service. Every town or village deserves its own DeVille’s.

The low point

The cheese selection was dull, unidentified, and over-chilled. I’d much prefer to have a single cheese in optimum condition. With so many wonderful Irish cheeses around, there’s no excuse.

The rating

7/10 food

9/10 ambience

8/10 value for money

24/30

Whispers from the gastronomicon

Thankfully juice cleanses and strict diets seem to have fallen out of favour, so there shouldn’t be as many ‘hangry’ people around this January as in previous years. That said, juicing is one way to introduce a significant quantity of greens into your diet without having to plough through platefuls of kale, and there are some nutritional advantages to consuming your vegetables in raw rather than cooked form. Pull that NutriBullet out from the back of the kitchen cupboard this week and aim for a juice a day, adding in some ginger for zing and fresh turmeric for extra  anti-inflammatory goodness.

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Book a Table

Please use the form below to reserve a table at Devilles. We look forward to serving you.

 

Thanks in advance, Kim & David.