I was beginning to think this place did not exist. For lord knows how long, friends and acquaintances living in the vicinity of Dalkey have been raving about De Ville’s restaurant.

Cross-examining them as to the cuisine, the consensus was “vaguely French”. It certainly seems to be a “succès d’estime” with the locals. I had been trying to get a booking for some months without success. “Friday fortnight” was the best the restaurant could come up with, a hard-to-manage proposition when the flood of restaurant openings in Dublin compels a critic to run around like the fabled Dutch lad, trying to stem the flow.

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